If you are just now reading my blogs, this one is all about our Thanksgiving trip. We received an email from Going that tickets from JFK to CDG (Paris) were $200, so it was a no-brainer to purchase them. If you want to join Going click here to use my referral code. Going is a travel company that essentially finds deals departing from your chosen US airports and sends you an alert when they find a deal that passes their Bestie Test. If you decide to snag one of those deals, they’ll show you how to book it—typically directly with the airline—which is great in case your plans change and you don’t have to go through a third party.
Our trip was segmented into 4 different parts. First, we went to Buffalo, NY then Paris, and our third leg was Normandie. I knew we had enough time to do two parts of France so my initial thought was South of France, because duh. Ricky’s first thought was Normandie because he is a WW2 history buff, given that the trip was also during his birthday I figured it was only far.
Our Normadie trip started on Nov 17th which is Ricky’s birthday and because he’s read the Outlander books he wanted to go to Versailles. Twist my arm, I LOVE Versailles! We left our amazing Paris flat that morning, read everything we did in Paris here, and took an Uber to Versailles. You can most definitely take the metro, but we had all our bags and were short on time so we reserved the Uber the night before and got a pretty good deal.
Day 1: Versailles & Rouen
We visited Versailles in one morning, and it felt like an ample amount of time for us given that we were just passing through. As I mentioned earlier, we had our bags with us, but fear not; Versailles offers a “left luggage” service. So, we left our belongings in a large locker with our own code (it opens at the same time as the castle) all morning for FREE. It’s a complimentary service, and you can leave your luggage there until closing time, so arriving early is crucial to secure space. The locker area does fill up; we arrived 15 minutes before opening, which was the perfect time to check our bags and queue at the palace entrance.
When lining up at Versailles, I initially planned to use my Museum Pass that came with my City Pass, and I had already secured tickets that way. I purchased a 2-day pass, which activates the moment you scan it at your first activity. However, by the time we reached Versailles, it had expired perhaps an hour ago. I usually catch such details, but this one slipped past me. The staff at Versailles was extremely helpful; they informed me that my pass had expired, directed me where to go, and gave us a bracelet that allowed us to skip the line. All in all, purchasing tickets and re-entering the Château took us an extra five minutes, proving that on-site purchases can be quite efficient.
I have visited Versailles once before and am convinced that it is one of those places that seems just as grand the first or the hundredth time you see it. The opulence, the size, the history all make for a phenomenal stop if you are able. Since it was Ricky’s birthday, we splurged a little and had brunch at Angelina’s inside Versailles, enjoying some of the best pain au chocolate and éclair we’ve ever tasted. If you have the time and a bit of a budget, I highly recommend it. Eating inside the palace was a unique experience, imagining all the people who have walked on those floors.
We had to catch a train at 12:00 pm, so we left just before noon and headed to the train station. I had never taken a proper train in France, so I was somewhat anxious about finding the right station and managing our luggage. However, the entire process was so smooth that it made me wish we had more trains in the USA. Finding the platform was easy, and someone checked our ticket before we boarded. Although someone was sitting in our “seats”, there was plenty of space, so we sat in the back by ourselves. Honestly, I loved the privacy and how quiet the ride was. Visiting in November, was a big plus on avoiding crowded places, and some tourist activities give you a better price since it’s off-peak season.
We had decided to alight at Rouen instead of taking a train all the way to Le Havre for several reasons: a) Rouen is slightly larger than other cities in Normandie, so there are more rental car options and, consequently, better deals. b) We had heard that Rouen was worth a visit. c) The train schedule and rental car store operation hours aligned perfectly. We arrived in Rouen around 1:30 pm, and the rental place reopened at 2:00 pm. They gave us an all-electric vehicle, which I thoroughly enjoyed, although it took us a day to figure out the charging ports situation (more on that later).
We allocated half a day for Rouen, which was ample for us. Our first stop was Rouen’s own Notre-Dame Cathedral; like most cathedrals of its age, it was truly magnificent. We then walked to Le Gros-Horloge, a 14th-century astronomical clock in Rouen. This city clock, one of my personal top three highlights, displays the day of the week, the lunar phase, and the time. Installed in a Renaissance arch crossing the Rue du Gros-Horloge, its mechanism is one of the oldest in France, dating back to 1389. The view from the top of the clock, offering a panorama of the entire city, is absolutely stunning.
A short walk later, we reached the plaza where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. This area has been transformed into a church in her honor. The church boasts a distinct architecture and is definitely worth the stop. Our final stop in Rouen was the Musée des Beaux-Arts, which is completely free during the off-season! Naturally, the first thing I looked for was their Impressionism wing, which was surprisingly well-stocked for a museum of its size. They housed some distinctive pieces by Claude Monet, such as Rue Saint Dennis and Rouen’s church, as well as two scenery pieces. They also had a beautiful Renoir, “Bouquet of Chrysanthemums,” and some Pissarros. We toured the entire museum in just over an hour.
We then returned to the car to drive to our Bed and Breakfast in Pennedepie, La Maison d’Aline. However, no one warned us about how narrow a French parking garage is, and combined with leaving the city at rush hour, it was somewhat stressful. It took us slightly over an hour to reach Aline’s, which I highly recommend. Clicking on the link will take you straight to her website. Booking directly with her instead of Airbnb gets you a better rate and a better room option too.
On the first night, we were the only guests in her house, and it felt like home. We went to bed right after arriving, as we were extremely tired from the day and had an early start the next morning.We had informed Aline that we could have breakfast around 8:00 am, and when we descended to the dining room area the next morning, a veritable feast awaited us. She had prepared a spread of cheeses, meats, breads, pastries, pancakes, fruit, and freshly made apple juice from their orchard. I definitely recommend opting for a B&B when visiting this part of France. You can’t beat staying in such charming places that make you feel like you’re in a movie.
Day 2-3: WW2 Historical Sites
This day was dedicated to WW2, and we began at Pointe du Hoc. This sometimes overlooked landing site is a 110 ft cliff that overlooks the English Channel on the northwestern coast of Normandy. During World War II, Pointe du Hoc served as the location for a series of German bunkers and machine gun posts. On D-Day, the United States Army Provisional Ranger Group attacked and captured Pointe du Hoc after scaling the cliffs. Today, Pointe du Hoc features a memorial and museum dedicated to the battle. Many of the original fortifications remain in place, and the site is still dotted with a number of bomb craters. Walking inside the bunkers and observing the bullet holes in the walls was a sobering experience. The view from Pointe du Hoc is so unbelievably beautiful, it seems counterintuitive that it was once the site of such devastating loss.
Following our visit to Pointe du Hoc, we headed to Omaha Beach, which proved to be just as sobering as the first landmark. A rain mist persisted throughout our visit, somehow fitting the somber and mournful atmosphere of the place. On our way back to find a charging port, we stopped at the Dead Man’s Corner museum. The history of this place was also surprising and often overlooked, really putting into perspective how everyone was fighting extreme battles that contributed to the success of the Allies. A unique feature of Dead Man’s Corner is its interactive attractions, like flight simulators, and an extensive collection of relics from the time.
After the last museum, our car was running on 30% battery, so we decided to find a charging port. There was one fairly close by, so we decided to try that first. When we got there, it was pouring rain, and we couldn’t figure out how to use it. It turned out it was out of service, and we hadn’t known. We had to look for another one and hadn’t eaten lunch yet. There was a McDonald’s in the same parking lot as the charger, so we swung by for some French McD’s, which was surprisingly much better than ours. I found another station online, so we headed that way; it was far from Aline’s, but we weren’t sure if there was one close to the B&B. By the time we got there, we realized it was a slow one. Ricky decided to charge it a little bit and head back.
We stopped at Honfleur for dinner and were pleasantly surprised with the service, quality, and the night views of the port. Our dinner consisted of a seafood platter, which was mainly oysters and all kinds of escargot! We truly enjoyed it, and I couldn’t pass up a crepe for dessert. I had seen online a Tesla charging center, so I asked Ricky to swing by, and lo and behold, we could use it for our car. It was extremely fast and much cheaper. This became our go-to charging area. They do say the third time is the charm. An extra plus was that it was right next to the outlet stores, and I got some retail therapy done while the car charged each time.
The following morning, breakfast was just as splendid as the previous day’s. With a well-fed belly and a fully charged car, we set off for the American Normandy Cemetery and Omaha Beach. Describing the emotions that accompany a visit to the American Normandy Cemetery is challenging. One experiences a profound sense of sadness, hope, and pride all at once, which follows you as you pass by each white cross. The cemetery offers serene, peaceful, and beautiful views, making it hard to reconcile the tranquility of the place with its historical significance and the events it bore witness to. Omaha Beach, just a few minutes from the cemetery, was our next stop, where we took in the various monuments.
To be entirely honest, after these two visits, I felt overwhelmed by the war-related sites. We had toured numerous museums, watched films, and seen monuments and memorials, so the emotional toll was considerable. Still, I am grateful for the experience, and I know it held even more significance for Ricky. We visited one final WW2 museum in Caen, a city of great importance during the war. This museum offered half price admission during the off-peak season – an unexpected perk of our November visit. It featured extensive exhibitions and was definitely worth the visit.
We returned with enough time to spend the afternoon in Honfleur again. We strolled around the city center, capturing images of its magnificent church. While exploring the town, we chanced upon a leatherworker in his atelier. We were captivated by his pieces. Despite the store being closed, he invited us in to show us around his shop, his products, and his processes. We both left with brand new leather belts and some fascinating stories. After shopping, we headed down to the marina, snapped some photos of the iconic row of colorful shops, and bought Nutella crepes to enjoy on our walk.
Next, we found a laundromat and did some laundry, as we still had another week of traveling ahead of us. We made a quick stop at the outlet stores, which proved to be a bad move for my wallet but a great time for me. Galeries Lafayette, which I mentioned in my Paris blog, had an outlet store there offering “Black Friday” deals. I ended up buying a cashmere scarf, leather gloves, and a new coat for a fraction of the original price. Ricky also treated himself to some new shirts and a jacket.
We had spa reservations at Les Jardins de Coppelia that night. After leaving Honfleur, we drove straight to the spa, which was only about a 10-minute drive away. Aline’s doesn’t have a spa facility, but they have arrangements with Les Jardins de Coppelia, which allowed us to get a great deal. We paid approximately 300 euros to book the ENTIRE spa facility (a possibility we hadn’t even considered) for three hours. This included a 30-minute couples massage, plenty of time in the Hammam and sauna, and complimentary dinner, dessert, and champagne. If you’re a fan of spas and massages like us, make sure to schedule a treatment here when you’re in the Normandy region—it gets a perfect rating from us.
Day 4-Etretat & Fecamp
Our last full day in Normandy was spent heading to the Etretat cliffs via the Pont de Normandie. This cable-stayed road bridge crosses the Seine River, connecting Le Havre to Honfleur in northern France. Its total length is 2,032 feet – 2,808 feet between the two piers. Upon our arrival at Etretat, the weather was windy and rainy, but it cleared up the moment we stepped out of the car. Etretat became globally recognized thanks to the numerous Impressionists who painted its impressive cliffs, including Monet. After walking along the shoreline, we had lunch at Taverne des Deux Augustins. The seafood pizza I had and Ricky’s seafood soup were generous portions and very reasonably priced.
From there, we visited the Benedictine Palace in Fecamp. The history of this abbey is impressive, and its signature Benedictine liqueur is even more so. Legend has it that in 1510, the Benedictine monk Dom Bernardo Vincelli created a secret elixir (the herbal Benedictine liqueur) that became widely successful. The Benedictine monks continued to produce it until the French Revolution, during which the recipe for the famous elixir was lost. It’s said that in 1863, Alexandre Le Grand, a wine merchant from Fécamp, discovered the composition of this lost elixir in his library and spent over a year deciphering the recipe. The elixir then became a liqueur that he named Benedictine in tribute to the Benedictine monk, Dom Bernardo Vincelli.
After our visit to Etretat and Fecamp, we returned to Honfleur, and I made one last trip to Galeries Lafayette to buy a Marc Jacobs wallet that was discounted by more than 80%! After that, it was our very last night at Aline’s. With an extremely early wake-up call of 4 am, we headed to Paris. Ricky drove the car all the way to CDG for drop-off, making just one wrong turn, which cost us an extra hour. However, our flight was delayed anyway. And then we were off to NYC! If you somehow managed to read this whole blog post, THANK YOU!! I know it’s a long one, but there was so much to do and so many cool stories to share. Stay tuned for NYC during Thanksgiving!
